Wednesday, May 18, 2016

How To Alter a Pattern To Add Flutter Sleeves

Today’s contributor is Terra from Mama Says Sew. All posts written by Terra for Make It and Love It can be found HERE

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Hi everyone! It’s Terra from Mama Says Sew.

Have you ever wanted to alter a pattern to make it your own but you didn’t know how? Well today I’m going to show you how to make a simple alteration to a pattern you already have so that you can add flutter sleeves.

How To Alter a Pattern To Add Flutter Sleeves | via www.makeit-loveit.com

 

If you’ve never drafted your own pattern before, don’t worry! One of the simplest things to do to change a pattern is to add flutter sleeves.

How To Alter a Pattern To Add Flutter Sleeves | via www.makeit-loveit.com

 

When you add flutter sleeves, you’ll end up gathering them, so there is some room for error.

How To Alter a Pattern To Add Flutter Sleeves | via www.makeit-loveit.com

 

I’ll also show you two different ways to add flutter sleeves — a lined version and an unlined version.

How To Alter a Pattern To Add Flutter Sleeves | via www.makeit-loveit.com

 

You can use a pattern that is sleeveless or that has sleeves — it just needs to have a lined bodice.

How To Alter a Pattern To Add Flutter Sleeves | via www.makeit-loveit.com

 

I love flutter sleeves because they add a dainty little feminine touch.  They’re also practical — and keep the sun off of little shoulders.

How To Alter a Pattern To Add Flutter Sleeves | via www.makeit-loveit.com

 

All you need for this project is a pattern with a basic bodice with a lining and sewing supplies, like fabric, scissors, and thread. You’ll also need a ruler and paper and a pencil.

To start, lay out your front and back bodice pieces, overlapping at the shoulders where the shoulder seam is. This will give you the finished shoulder length minus the seam allowance in the pattern.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (1)

Mark where you want the flutter sleeve to start and stop and measure the length.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (2)

Now you need to decide how full you want your ruffle to be. I usually like to make them 3 x the length to get a nice full flutter sleeve. Take your length from the last step and multiply by 3 (or less if you want a more subtle flutter sleeve). Then divide that number in half. For example, my length from the last step was 4.5 inches. I multiplied 4.5 by 3, then divided by 2, giving me 6.75 inches total.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (3)

Now draw your flutter sleeve. Draw a straight line across the top, then a curved line down to the bottom.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (4)

Now add your seam allowance for gathering. I used 1/2 inch for all my seam allowances. The seam allowance shown below will be where the gathering stitches will go, and will be enclosed between the bodice and the bodice lining when you sew your top or dress. The dotted line is where you will hem or add a lining to your flutter sleeve.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (5)

Draw a line connecting the dots.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (6)

Trace over the lines and this is your pattern piece for your flutter sleeve. You’ll cut two sleeves and two lining pieces, or, if you want an unlined sleeve, just cut two sleeves.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (7)

To cut your sleeves, make sure the fold is perpendicular to the selvage. The grainline of your fabric should run the length of the pattern piece.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (8)

For a lined sleeve, continue as follows.

With right sides together, sew the lining to the sleeve along the curved edge. Trim your seam.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (9)

Turn right sides out and press. Topstitch if desired.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (10)

Run two rows of gathering stitches along the flat edges of your flutter sleeves.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (11)

After you’ve sewn the bodice and bodice lining together at the shoulder seams, gather the sleeves and pin them along the sleeve opening. Make sure that the raw edges of the sleeve are all within the bodice seam allowance.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (12)

Baste the sleeves to the bodice.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (13)

Sew the bodice lining to the bodice around the sleeves and the neckline. Trim seam allowances and turn right side out. Now all you need to do is follow the pattern as written to finish your dress or top.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (14)

For unlined sleeves, follow the directions above. The only difference is rather than sewing the lining to the sleeve, you’ll turn the curved edge under twice and hem. Curved edges are a little tricky to turn under evenly, but just do a little at a time and press as you go.

how to alter a pattern to add flutter sleeves (15)

 

Good luck with all your alterations!

-Terra

blog contributor terra

 

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It’s not so scary to alter clothing – check out a few more great tutorials where we share how to make simple alterations to your favorite pieces:

Altering Jeans: Shorter (with Identical Hem)

Skirt Alterations – Long to Short…with added Flowers/Ruffles

Add a Color Block Stripe to a T-shirt (…to add length)

Add a Color Block Stripe to a T-shirt (...to add length) | via Make It and Love It

 

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